Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Flying Pans: Two Chefs, One World

Click here to read feature on StarChefs.com


Flying Pans: Two Chefs, One World

by Jessica Dukes
 Greg Bertolini
June 2011





Biographies

Chef Bernard Guillas
The Marine Room – La Jolla, CA
Chef Ron Oliver
The Marine Room – La Jolla, CA

Recipes

Sesame Peppered Ruby Red Ahi Tuna, Fennel Mango Salad, Avocado Fritter, and Hibiscus Essence
Chefs Bernard Guillas and Ron Oliver of The Marine Room – La Jolla, CA
Phuket Style Clam Hot Pot, Coconut Milk, and Red Curry
Chefs Bernard Guillas and Ron Oliver of The Marine Room – La Jolla, CA
Phuket Style Clam Hot Pot, Coconut Milk, and Red Curry from the cookbook Flying Pans
Two journal-keeping and journey-seasoned chefs penned, kitchen-tested, food-styled, and bound a voyage for the senses in Flying Pans: Two Chefs, One World—a collection of recipes and glimpses of life from their travels to over 40 ports of call. Executive Chef Bernard Guillas of La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club and The Marine Room in La Jolla, California, and his Chef de Cuisine of 12 years, Ron Oliver, maintained their busy work schedules during the book’s passage from bright idea to recent winner of two 2011 IACP Cookbook Awards (People's Choice Award and Best Chefs and Restaurant Cookbook)—all with the help of trusted friend and food photographer, Gregory Bertolini. The final product is an anthology of their favorite food moments and corresponding recipes from around the world, accompanied by a centerfold-worthy photograph of each dish. Through recipes and vivid impressions of culinary experiences in locales as diverse as Iceland, Vietnam, the Republic of Georgia, Bolivia, Hawaii, and Pennsylvania, Guillas and Oliver bring together far corners of the world, along with the kindred food spirits that inhabit and eat in them.

Interview

Jessica Dukes: What inspired you to write this book?
Bernard Guillas, Co-author of Flying Pans: Two Chefs, One World: Ron Oliver has been working with me for about 12 years. I was just coming back from Singapore; I was teaching over there. It was about 11pm at night, and Ron came into the office. He said, "Bernard, you’ve been traveling like crazy. Where all have you traveled?" And I had a calendar in my office, and we starting putting tags everywhere I had traveled, and it was about 50 countries. I said, "What about you?" He started putting tags in his calendar, and he had about 30 countries. We said, "Hey man, we should write a cookbook together," not knowing what it would take to write it.

JD: What did it end up taking to write it?
BG: Well to start, I run three restaurants, a private club, and a hotel. And Ron works and has two beautiful daughters. We’re both pretty busy. We decided to use a ghost writer, so we met with a friend of ours, gave our friend a page to pen a chapter, and he sat down with us and wrote the piece. When Ron and I sat together and read it, he said to me, "Hey man, you don’t talk like that! Well, here’s the deal; we’re gonna write the whole book." So we wrote the whole book. I kept a journal as a kid—we both did. I traveled a lot with my family; Ron did, too. So we put our journals together, and we wrote up the list, and developed a master list of our travels.

JD: How do you see your book being used?
BG: We have a lot of culinary students who approach the book—the new generation of students. They like to see what is beyond a recipe, which is culture. Having all the stories, they are able to travel with us, and it makes them want to learn about the culture and cuisine of that region.

JD: Do you have a favorite section in the book?
BG: I love all the recipes of course, but my favorite part of the book is the true identity of the two authors, who walk out there in the world. It is not only to be stuck in the same routine, doing the same thing, reading the same thing, viewing the same thing on television: it’s beyond that. I love the stories. I love the travel. And the book reads like a travelogue.

JD: What did you learn in creating this book?
BG: You have to be patient and really flexible with your recipes. This book is done not just for professionals, but for everyone who loves to cook at home. When we developed a recipe, we did the kitchen testing. After that, we did all the recipes in front of us; then we gave them to a culinary school, and they tested all the recipes. We got the best information from our friends. Our friends would be calling us [and saying] "Hey Bernard, how do we get lemon myrtle?" Oops! I realized that will be a little hard to get.

JD: How much were you involved in the photography?
BG: We did all the photography and food styling with Greg [Bertolini]. The thing that we learned, first of all, it is a very big commitment when you have a full-time job. Each shoot was 12 hours—and you are able to get only five pictures! It is unbelievably time consuming.

JD: What do you read for culinary inspiration?
BG: I have to tell you that I love to read all the old cookbooks—really old, like 150-year-old cookbooks, or even more than that, and the reason I like those is because it shows you that where we are today … they already had the technique. They didn’t have the technology, but they had the technique. Food is society. We connect with food; we connect with the ingredients. Twenty people from 20 different countries can sit down together but even if they don’t communicate or speak all the same language, they will connect with the food and connect with the anecdotes of the culture and of the food.

JD: Do you have any advice for a chef who’s thinking about writing a cookbook?
BG: Anybody who has a restaurant should. You have to have a plan. You have to put that cookbook into your marketing program; it’s gotta be in that budget. First of all, you will get a lot back from it, and the exposure is just amazing—but you have to find a really cool angle for it. If you are doing a cookbook that is going to be only for trade, it limits you a little bit. People say, "Well, this is a beautiful book but I cannot cook from it," and it becomes a coffee table book. Another thing that we decided was very important: we wanted just one picture per recipe, so you can see the recipe, you can see the picture, and it’s very enticing in that way. So it is part coffee table book, and part cookbook.
And of course, love what you do, as well. You share the love and that is the bottom line. If there would be more love and less war, we would all be very happy.

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Top Pairs: Indian Food Wine Pairings at NYC's Junoon



See the News & Media section of Chef Vikas Khanna's blog
This feature appears alongside Sam Sifton's review of the restaurant in The New York Times  : )



Top Pairs: Indian Food Wine Pairings at Manhattan's Junoon Restaurant

by Jessica Dukes with Will Blunt with photos by Shannon Sturgis 
Vol. 16
June 2011
An ice-cold bottle of Kingfisher Lager leaps into your head—because you’re familiar with the beer’s bready sweetness and punchy herbal hops, and because you’ve been asked, “what goes with both Madras curry and Rogan Josh?” In India, from the Kashmir to Kerala, proteins and vegetables typically cede center stage to sauces of varying density, curries, spice, and heat. And chilled malt and hops have long been the antidote to piquant aggression. But for the thinking person’s beverage director or sommelier, India’s kaleidoscope of spice combinations and variable heat spectrum begs for something more than a simple thirst-quencher.
The dryness and low alcohol content of a cold brew may be adept at soothing palates set ablaze by spice, but Master Sommelier and lecturer Scott Carney of Junoon in New York City wants to introduce guests to the illimitable nuances of wine and their power when paired with Indian food. With wine, he hopes “to give the food and its complexity more respect. Beer is the default beverage setting [for Indian cuisine.] But I think the food here warrants something more than that.”
Restaurant
Who
  • Sommelier Scott Carney
  • Long before Scott Carney came on as beverage director of Junoon, he was an integral player in the New York City wine scene, earning his Master Sommelier title while directing the beverage program atGotham Bar & Grill. Since Junoon's opening in December 2010, Carney has built the restaurant's wine list from scratch, assembling 250 labels to accompany Chef Vika Khanna’s cuisine. Carney's pairings harmonize wine with the complexities of Indian spices and sauces, and complement the wide array of cooking techniques found in Indian gastronomy. He has found that, unlike beer, wines can either amplify the heat in a dish or soothe the palate suffering from too much spice. Carney is inspired by the “excitement of sensory travel,” and invites diners “to pack curiosity and explore the sub-continent” through the interplay between its cuisine and the fruit of the vine.
Wine
2008 Esprit de Beaucastel Tablas Creek
Dish
Monkfish Tikka Tandoor: Hung Yogurt, Serrano Chilies, and Mustard Seed Puree
Pairing Note
Chef Vikas Khanna’s tandoor clay oven produces tender, meaty, monkfish with a deep, roasted flavor. The aromatic, creamy, and spicy sauce envelops the table, whose guests, Carney hopes, will avoid guzzling beer by rote. Carney selects a 2008 Beaucastel Blanc, with a rounded body and low acidity to pair with the dish. Its elegant honeysuckle and lemon nose, with some tropical fruit, thyme, and tarragon notes, neutralize some of the dish’s more assertive flavors. The Serrano chilies inspired Carney, when he first began building the wine list in December 2010, to play with diners’ expectations about heat through complementary and contrastive pairings. With the Beaucastel, a creamy texture bordering on coconut oil coats the mouth, and sidesteps the pepper’s capsaicinoid scorch. “Chili peppers are hot, and the logic is that with heat like that, wine with a viscous quality will retard the influence of alcohol and spice.” And the wine’s cool, wet-stone finish keeps pace with the lingering, potent flavors of the sauce.

+ Click dish photo to enlarge
Wine
2007 Grüner Veltliner Achleiten Prager
Dish
Nadru Kofte Handi: Kashmiri Lotus Root, Homemade Cheese, Red Bhutan Rice, Cashew Nuts, and Cardamom
Pairing Note
Khanna’s lotus root patties with potato and paneer cheese is a traditional and bold vegetarian dish from the Muslim-influenced northern Kashmiri region. And the accompanying nutty sauce of crushed almonds and cashews has a spicy bite, thanks to paprika. For the pairing, Carney considered differing goals for Eastern versus Western palates, and landed with both feet firmly in the Orient, where taste buds seek out extra heat. By wielding a wine with a higher level of acid, Carney succeeds in amplifying the flame—and the result is more eye-opening stimulation than wallop. This Veltliner from Austria is intense, with notes of guava and lime. It has a fistful of peppery spice, balance from a touch of sweetness and cream, and a staunch, enduring finish. Carney is proud of the complementary interplay between the wine and the dish. “Wines like the Grüner or a Sauvignon Blanc celebrate heat with their vibrant acidity. This is a famous old vineyard, with old vines. There is also a coolness to the wine because of its moderate alcohol; a dryness but a richness. It’s a very good combination.”

+ Click dish photo to enlarge
Wine
2008 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Fourrier
Dish
Duck Tellicherry Peppercorn Handi: Tellicherry Peppercorns, Garlic, Curry Leaves, and Tamarind
Pairing Note
For a French twist on Indian flavors Khanna combines tart tamarind with intense, almost fruity Tellicherry peppercorns from the Malabar Coast, curry leaves, and unctuous duck. “Pinot Noir is a classic complement to game,” says Carney. “Duck is traditionally served with a little bit of fruit, either a sauce or compote. There are notes of earth [in the Gevrey]—it is a terroir wine in that regard—and the restraint and balance of a high-quality wine.” The young Burgundy bursts with aromatics: strawberry, cherry, underbrush, bristly pine, and peppery spice. On the tongue it’s bright, acidic, and full of fruit. Carney’s missive with the pairing was to demonstrate to the diner that, “wine is like another sauce, of sorts, meant to season the food, not dominate it, and add value in net terms to the dining experience.”

+ Click dish photo to enlarge
Wine
2001 Côte Rôtie Patrick Jasmin
Dish
Lamb Shank Handi: Braised with Onion, Tomato, Yogurt, and Junoon Seven Spice
Pairing Note
Lamb braised for hours in a traditional Northern Indian sauce awakens the romantic in Carney. “I love the idea that the lamb was slow-roasted and that the wine was aged—this wine is 10 years old. It still has power, but it has a maturity, as well.” The softened, leathery Syrah partners well with the slow-roasted meat. Delicate, deep flavors and spice in the wine align gracefully with the depth of flavor in the dish. Carney believes that splitting hairs over peppercorns, cumin, and cardamom, while attempting to locate each ingredient’s flavonoid touch-point, is a foolhardy exercise in missing the point. “The idea of the perfect pairing is a bit precious.” Instead, he hopes to alert tables to the possibilities that wine and the food can offer each other, especially in the context of an ancient cuisine that historically lacks the Western tradition of wine—for the diner, it’s a passage to adventure, either by the glass or bottle.

+ Click dish photo to enlarge