Chile's Native Son
Rodolfo Guzmán shares the time and place philosophy of Boragó on the Main Stage
A young Chilean chef took the stage, earnest, focused and transparently passionate. He began by introducing in a few words the work at his restaurant Boragó in Santiago. Culinary foraging trips across the scaly, notched spine of Chile’s 2,650 miles have resulted in the discovery of long-forgotten foodways and 32 different kinds of mushrooms and other ingredients previously unknown outside of indigenous cooking. The Sixth Sense struck the audience with a shiver when Chef Rodolfo Guzmán began to demonstrate his food. A simple preparation of native kra kra fish from Easter Island visually represented time and place, as terroir from sea-to-plate blended with the ancient technique of cooking over volcanic rocks. Rainfall in cold, near-Arctic Patagonia transformed into a bite-sized snack and visible wisp of mentholated air. Guzmán´s final dish started as a story about the discovery of a tree in the middle of nowhere. It’s special to the Mapuche people because its seed pods produce a haunting spirit call in the wind. In the video that followed (painstakingly produced by Guzmán), the chef demonstrated a chocolate “seed pod” with a rattle that echoed through the hearts of all those in attendance, a global community of chefs in love with food and cooking.
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